The catch with investing in dog training collars is that you can’t use them as a substitute for proper training. Training collars can be a very useful tool if used properly and sparingly, but in the wrong hands, they become problematic.
Available in two configurations, citronella or electric, training collars are designed to reinforce the owners training needs. They should be used as part of an overall training program and not as a substitute for attention. It is possible to simply place a collar on a dog, hold the remote, and shock or spray the dog each time it is doing something wrong, but that isn’t a particularly effective way to teach a dog to behave.
Positive reinforcement techniques have been shown, in many studies, to be more effective in the long run. As is the case with invisible fences where a dog will exceed the predetermined boundary if there is sufficient cause, a dog will ignore a training collar to get what it wants, if sufficiently motivated.
If you choose to use a training collar anyway, then citronella collars are considered more humane and more effective. The scent is generally inoffensive to humans and hits the dog in multiple senses. Electric collars, such as training collars and barking collars, are highly controversial with many people and can cause “hot spots” where the probes make contact with the skin. For hairier breeds, they may not work at all.
Just like with any other training method, the use of dog shock collars has to be carried out appropriately. In the hands of untrained humans with questionable motives, an electric collar can quickly become inappropriate or pointless.
October 9th, 2009
If you have taken your dog out to the dog park, you may have heard about a dog trained with a bark collar. This innovation uses the technology created for electric dog fences and uses it to prevent a dog from nuisance barking. The collars come in two basic formats: electric and citronella.
Electric
Just like the invisible fence collars, this bark collar will provide a small electric shock to a dog that barks incessantly. When charged and placed upon the dogs throat, the sensor within the unit feels the vibrations generated by barking and initially warns the dog with a sound cue. If the dog continues to bark a shock is administered. Some models will increase the level of shock until the dog stops barking and reset their start level to a higher intensity.
Citronella
This collar uses a spray function to curb barking. Using the same type of sensor to detect nuisance barking, this collar will spray a citronella substance up at your dog’s face. This is considered by many to be even more effective than the electric collar because it affects multiple senses at once. Additionally, unlike electric collars, there are no concerns voiced by animal cruelty advocates with using this collar to curb barking.
The best place to check out the opinions and varieties available in bark collars is online. A bark collar may help to keep your dog from barking excessively, and with excessive barking being the number one reason people give up their dogs, it may help keep your pet happy at home.
September 11th, 2009
If you have ever looked at a dog while they are eating from a bowl placed upon the ground, you will notice that there is a whole lot of gulping going on. If you want to reduce the gulping and the problems that are associated with it, elevated dog bowls are your answer. For a dog to eat from the ground involves a lot of postural distortion, resulting in excess air in the stomach and even the possibility of stomach torsion. Stomach torsion is usually a fatal condition.
Elevated dog bowls bring the food up to the proper height. You want a dog to eat from a bowl that is no more than six inches below the height of its withers. If you have several dogs or don’t want to buy multiple dishes as your dog grows, you can always get an adjustable elevated bowl. By raising the dog’s bowl, you instantly reduce pressure on wrist and shoulder joints, something that is particularly nice for older dogs or those with arthritis.
Elevated dog feeders can be found in single, double, or even triple configurations. One of the nicest things you can do with this kind of bowl is to set one outside your door and let your dog get a nice long drink before they return home after playing or going for a walk. You avoid the mess associated with an excited dog drinking in the home, and you make it easier for your dog to recharge. Clearly a win/win situation.
August 10th, 2009
Many dogs eat from standard bowls placed on the floor. Raised dog feeders are better for their digestion and posture. When a dog needs to bend down to eat they ingest a lot of air and put undue strain upon their wrists and forearms. By raising their bowl you significantly reduce the amount of air they swallow along with their food, decreasing their odds of developing stomach bloat and gas and other digestive discomforts.
Elevated bowls are available in a variety of styles. You can get a simple one bowl system that is easily movable from one place to another or a very stylish wrought iron affair that holds two bowls and is nearly a piece of art. Some systems are designed to grow with your dog. No matter what you choose you still get the benefits of an elevated position for your dog. You can place an elevated bowl out in the yard filled with water at all times providing your pet with a comfortable drinking station year round.
Ideally your dog should eat with their head no more than 6 inches below their standard upright posture. This allows maximum comfort and the most direct trip from mouth to stomach. By placing your dog’s head at the right height you help them eat in comfort. For older dogs with arthritis in their hips and wrists eating can become painful, causing them to gulp down their food as quickly as possible to reduce the amount of time they are in pain. That gulping can cause a number of digestive problems. Raised dog feeders are a good addition to your dog care regime.
July 9th, 2009
Just like invisible fences, electric dog fences are the generic version of the same technology. Available more as a do it yourself project, these fences accomplish the same goals as the name brand varieties. You will save quite a bit of money installing the fence and training your dog yourself, but it will involve some work.
To install the fence you will need to predetermine the parameters that you will permit your dog to roam. Having made that decision you then dig a trench and bury the transmitting wire about six inches below the ground. The wire is connected to a power source and it begins to transmit a radio signal. The signal goes to a receiver that is attached to the dog’s collar. There are a variety of options for the collar.
The basic choices when looking for a collar include a shock collar, a collar that sends a jet of citronella towards the dogs face and one that uses an audible alert. The audible alert can be combined with either the citronella spray or the shock. The shocks are specified not to harm the animal, but there is no standardization in the industry. The shock collar is only appropriate for dogs that have passed six months of age and are at least seven pounds in weight.
Once the system is in place it is time to train your pet. Above the ground you place a series of flags that indicate to the dog where the fence exists underground. As you take your dog near the fence, they will first get a small warning response. If they proceed beyond the fence region the receiver will transmit a full shock to dissuade the dog from passing the fence line. Training sessions should be short and involve much positive reinforcement; dogs learn better when they want to please you.
Using an electric fence gives you some security that your pet will remain within the boundaries you set. If your dog is properly trained they are most likely to stay where you wish them to stay. It will prevent losing your pet and the worries that relate to that loss. Your dog will likely remain in your yard. The problem is that if your dog does leave the yard, ignoring the signal, it will be very reluctant to return and suffer the shock again.
One of the primary advantages of this system is that it doesn’t change the view of your yard. Everything appears just as it did before you set up your electric dog fence. It will not prevent another animal from entering your yard or children from crossing onto your property. You trade certainty for visual appeal.
This type of enclosure is not appropriate for nervous or skittish animals. They will not do well with the unexpected shocks and may not understand why it is that they are being disciplined. Only you can tell if this is an appropriate method to fence in your animal, never the less, it is an effective way to contain most dogs.
June 16th, 2009
While some cancers are not preventable there are steps that you can take to reduce your dog’s chances of developing cancer:
1. Spay/Neuter: Statistics indicate that spayed female dogs have a much lower risk of developing mammary tumors while neutered males have a statistically lower rate of testicular cancer. These findings are significant and should not be ignored as they are a sure way to dramatically reduce your dog’s chances of being diagnosed with these cancers.
2. Fewer vaccinations: The battle over canine and children vaccinations is a controversial subject over which both sides have passionate arguments for. While puppy vaccinations are recommended by almost all Veterinarians some now consider a number of factors before providing yearly vaccinations to your adult dog. Some problems attributed to frequent vaccinations include suppressed immune systems, and impaired health which can shorten your dog’s life. Many veterinarians now believe that a more natural, common sense approach to vaccinations is best for your dog, as opposed to frequent and excessive vaccinations for any potential eventuality. They argue that fewer vaccinations keeps your dog’s immune system strong and may protect your against the possibility of contracting cancer. Ask your Vet for a thorough explanation of why your dog needs any recommended vaccine and never discontinue vaccinations without first talking to your Vet.
3. Provide quality food: While there is no direct link between feeding your dog commercial grade dog food, there are many diseases that are caused by poor nutrition. Dogs who are fed on low grade commercial food are more prone to urinary tract infections, kidney disease, dental disease, obesity and heart disease. While no direct links can be made there are several carcinogenic compounds that turn up in these dog foods from time to time. Good nutrition through higher quality foods can help to promote overall good health which can be a tremendous asset to your dog if he should ever have to undergo cancer treatments.
4. Use vitamins: While there is no guarantee that vitamins and minerals prevent cancer, they can keep your dog’s immune system healthy and more able to fight disease or infections. Some Veterinarians maintain that the administration of antioxidants help dog’s bodies prevent the formation of free radicals and protect against canine cancer onset. Some examples of antioxidants include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin E, selenium, lycopene and beta carotene. Antioxidants are also present in foods and many holistic vets feel that natural or whole food is the best antioxidant source available for your dog. This can be a difficult balance to provide for your dog so always consult your vet before changing or adding to your feeding or vitamin regime.
5. Detoxify his environment: Dogs pick up pesticides, herbicides and other chemicals in your house and yard. Toxic for both you and your dog, these chemicals can potentially cause cancer in your dog. It is best to keep all cleaning products, gasoline type fuels, anti-freeze and pesticides up and out of reach of your dog or locked in floor level cabinets. Also, keep your dog away from the home for several hours if it is being sprayed for bugs. Another factor to consider when detoxifying your dog’s environment is second hand smoke. Studies have shown that the second hand smoke from human cigarette smoking causes higher instances of nasal and lung cancer in canines.
Remember that prevention is important; however, it should not take the place of check-ups and screenings at your Veterinarian’s office. Early detection is key to treating cancer successfully in people as well as their four-legged friends.
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May 21st, 2009
With people postponing marriage longer than ever and dog ownership on the rise, it is no surprise that there conflicts arise when single dog owners bring a partner into the equation. It is quite common for a single woman to bring her new boyfriend home to find that her pooch pal detests her new beau. In some cases the conflict is so fierce that the dog owner fells she has to choose between the two. This is unfortunate because these situations can be worked through causing a balanced relationship for all. In many cases people’s best efforts to help the situation actually make it worse in the long run.
To fix these situations people should understand how they came about in the first place. While men engage in these behaviors as well, single women tend to make their dogs their babies and lavish unlimited attention with no behavior consequences for their dogs. This will result in an unbalanced dog with no boundaries who thinks that he is the master of his owner and not the other way around. Women, and sometimes men, allow their dogs to eat from their plates, sleep in their beds and generally permit the dog to behave however he wants. Considering that dogs are pack animals, this situation ends in the dog being the pack leader and acting accordingly. These dogs end up resentful and aggressive towards anyone who comes near their human because they feel that human is an extension of their territory.
With this in mind there are some steps that you can take in effort to make peace between your dog and your boyfriend:
1. Try to ignore your dog as much as possible on date night. When your boyfriend arrives to pick you up administer love and attention and praise to your dog. If you try this suggestion your dog will associate positive things with your new partner. Do not do the opposite and give your dog plenty of attention because you are going out that night and then stop when your date arrives because your dog will associate your new partner with less attention for him.
2. Have your new beau bring your dog’s absolute favorite treat with him when he visits. Think of Jack Nicholson in As Good As It Gets when he plies the neighbor’s dog Verdell with bacon. By having your date give your dog his favorite treat every time he comes over the dog will begin to look forward to greeting him rather than wanting to attack him!
3. Set boundaries even when your man is not around. If you sleep with your dog in the bed every night until your boyfriend stays over your dog will be confused and take it out on your boyfriend. Try getting a super comfy bed for your dog and making sure he sleeps in it every night. This will help when sleepover nights arrive because your dog will be used to it. This may take patience and several attempts if your dog has been a consistent bed partner.
4. Have your man take your best friend for a quick stroll before date night. Make sure they go it alone so your boyfriend has the opportunity to show that he is a human that is in charge, but a human your dog can trust. Walking with a dog is a huge part of his overall health and well-being and your dog will learn to trust your man, just as he trusts you. Once the two of them get the hand of it you can all walk together in peace and harmony.
Following these steps will help to set boundaries in the home, but do not mean that you have to change how much you love your dog. Loving a dog requires more than love and undivided attention. Dogs need discipline and consistency to be well-balanced pack members. If you follow these steps and make no progress, consider getting a professional to make a home visit. A professional trainer can tell you where you are going wrong and what you can do to fix it. Most importantly, do not give up! Almost all of these cases can be resolved to allow all involved to live happily ever after.
Article sent in by a site with invisible fence, dog beds, and dog kennel
April 13th, 2009
If you have been working on obedience training with your pooch, you have probably been pretty amazed with your results. Dogs are just fast, competent learners! Sometimes, though, you may have a problem with getting your dog’s attention. Sure, he’ll sit and rollover; that is, once you yell his name a dozen times. Establishing eye contact with your pooch can be a huge help in training; it can also keep him safe if a dangerous situation arises. Here are a few tips for training your pet to look at you.
If you take your pet to a public place (even if it’s just a walk through your neighborhood), then it’s extremely important that you have control over your dog. Yes, a leash can help, but dogs do not always react to leashes the ways we would like for them to. Establishing eye contact with your dog not only gets his attention, but it also gets him ready for whatever you need him to do. In essence, it gives you control. This can be especially important when the dog across the street is tempting your pooch. As your dog ages, he may lose his acute sense of hearing. Having eye contact training already established can help you with a deaf pet.
So, now that you know a few benefits of eye contact training, it is time to get started. Before you gather the supplies, think about what verbal command you want to relate with eye contact. If you want, you can simply use your pet’s name to get his attention. This is not always ideal, though, because there are cases where you do not want your pet to look at you every time you say his name. So, come up with your own command. “Watch me” or “look here” are always good options. Now, it is time to move onto the training. As with all training, you’ll need a pocketful of treats. If you use a clicker for training, then you should go ahead and grab that, too. Take your pet to a quiet room in your home with no distractions, so that he can focus on you.
The methods of teaching eye contact are numerous. This is just one way, but there are many others. If you want to modify this training to fit your pet, then feel free to do so. Some people recommend having your pet on a leash that is tied around your waist; that way, if your pet is easily distracted, there are not too many directions he can look.
Have your pet sit in front of you. Pull a treat from your pocket, but be careful not to show it to your pooch yet. Say your chosen command as you display the treat out of your pet’s reach. He will probably be hypnotized by the treat in your hand, staring hard. But, most pooches will look to their owners when it comes to something they want. Keep the treat in your hand until he looks up to you. The moment he looks up to you, praise him with a “good” or any other verbal praise, and let him have the treat. If you use a clicker to train, the click the clicker the instant he looks to you and give him the treat. Repeat this a handful of times. If your pet refuses to give you a glance, then you may have to move the treat towards your face. Let’s your dog’s eyes follow as you put the treat nearly level with your eyes. Repeat this several times, but then move the treat away from your face.
As your pet begins to make eye contact, you should begin to add your own distractions. With the treat in hand, move your hand away from your body. Your dog will look at the treat and then you. Give the command. Once again, when he looks at you give him the reward. Eventually, he will learn that looking at you, instead of looking at the treat, gets him the treat. Then, move the training into an area where there are other distractions and continue the routine.
Getting your pooch’s attention is necessary for a number of reasons. Training him to look at you is not a tough instruction, but it should be tailored to fit your pet. For instance, if you are clicker training, then use the clicker; if your pooch likes to be pet instead of getting a treat, then give him a good rub. Once your pet understands what you want from him, then practice the training outdoors.
This article is sponsored by Pet Super Store. A great website for pet carriers, dog crates, and orthopedic dog beds
September 10th, 2008
Adopting from a shelter is a great choice! There are many dogs that need and deserve loving homes. When you bring your new pooch home, there may be a period of adjustment. Depending on the dog, there may be issues that arise that do not necessarily fit with your daily lifestyle. Getting accustomed to a new dog takes time and patience, so don’t give up before you try!
Just because a dog is at a shelter, does not mean that he is a bad dog. Instead, the previous owner was unable to take care of him for one reason or another. However, there is a chance that the dog will exhibit behavior problems as a result of his previous environment. For instance, a dog that was rescued from an animal hoarder may show neglect or anxiety issues. Which leads me to my first point: never get angry with the dog for associating his new home with a past experience. Instead, provide a comfortable, loving home to get him back on track. You can feel rest assured knowing that a shelter will not allow you to adopt an unhealthy or overly aggressive pooch. Below are a few tips to make the transition and beginning stages a bit easier.
Let your pooch sniff things out. When he arrives at your home he may be overwhelmed with all the new sights and sounds. Let him take however much time he needs to get accustomed to his new situation. If he wants to sit in the corner, then allow him to sit in the corner. By letting him get comfortable and not forcing any extra stress upon him, you are helping him deal with his anxiousness and helping to keep his anxiety to a minimum.
Be realistic. It’s highly unlikely that you are going to leave the shelter with a perfectly trained, well-behaved pooch. The fact is that, prior to you, he may not have received much love or attention. It’s up to you to start him on a proper training program just as you would any other pooch. It’s also up to you to teach him the house rules, which leads me to my next point…
Don’t take it personally. When you arrive home, if the first thing your pooch does is urinate on your floor, don’t worry about it. The worst thing you can do is punish him right off the bat. Remember that he may not have had any rules or training prior to you, so he really just doesn’t know any better; he isn’t doing it out of spite.
Take some responsibility. If your new dog goes straight for your favorite plant, then come up with ways to keep the plant away from the dog until you can get the training started. In other words, don’t ask for an unnecessary situation. If your dog shows certain behaviors from the beginning, then realize that the behaviors will persist until you take responsibility.
Balance out the training. Just because he likes to eat your socks does not mean that he should not be able to leave his crate. Yes, a training program should be started, but it should also be started slowly. Your pet is going through a pretty significant change; the last thing he needs is cruel or harsh punishment and strict training. Give him a few days or a couple of weeks to get accustomed to his new life, while slowly introducing the training.
Enjoy the new company. Maybe your new dog won’t be perfectly trained or maybe he won’t understand what you want from him, but he will be a great companion. In the beginning, keep him on a leash when you walk. Play with him and brush him daily. The little segments of time that the two of you spend together will help create a strong bond between you and your pooch.
Bringing a pet home from a shelter is a great idea! He will be happy and grateful for what you have done. Being happy about your new pooch is inevitable, but you must also remain realistic in the situation. Remember that he may not have had training or rules before going home with you, so don’t expect him to be perfectly well-behaved. Instead, take time slowly easing him into training, while spending quality time with him. Before you know it, the two of you will be best friends!
Article courtesy of Pet-Super-Store.com where you can find dog beds, dog crate pads and dog car seat covers.
September 2nd, 2008
Having a cat’s nails removed is a very controversial issue. Many view declawing as inhumane and cruel, while others look at is as necessary. There are alternatives to the declawing procedure, so middle grounders may use declawing as a last resort. Whether or not you would like to declaw your cat is completely up to you and your veterinarian. But, before you rush into the procedure, you should understand the process, the alternatives, and the reasons why an owner would have a cat’s nails removed.
Onychectomy is a surgical method of removing a cat’s claws. The surgery is similar to an amputation where last phalanx on each toe is removed. For a human, it would be similar to removing the last segment of bone on a finger. By removing this bone, the nail bed is removed; thus, the nail is unable to grow. Surgical glue is used to seal the incision, and the cat is usually kept overnight. Another method used, tendonectomy, does not involve removing the claw. Instead, the tendons that allow the cat to flex its nails are cut. The nails are still there and continue to grow throughout the cat’s life; she is just unable to move her claws. Both procedures require anesthesia and many veterinarians will write a prescription for pain medication. Recovery for the procedures can take anywhere from a couple of days to a couple of weeks. An advantage of tendonectomy is that it is considered less painful for the cat after the operation. A disadvantage of the procedure is that the owner must keep the cat’s nails clipped throughout its life to prevent ingrown nails. Although an onychectomy may cause more pain for the cat initially, there are normally no additional side effects once the incisions heal.
There are a few alternatives to declawing, but all take time and patience. Soft Paws and Soft Claws are vinyl coverings that glue onto your pet’s nails. It may take time to get your cat used to the feel. For some cats, the claws will stay on anywhere between four and six weeks; but, the claws can detach earlier than that. Often, placing an intriguing scratching post in your home can deter your cat from clawing your beloved furniture. Using a scratching post combined with methods to keep your cat off the furniture (such as a spray bottle) has proven successful for many cat owners.
A fairly common belief is that all indoor cats are declawed; but, in truth, going through with the procedure is the owner’s choice. Some people automatically think that if they have an indoor cat, then it’s going to claw the furniture. All cats are different; and, yes, some will go straight for your favorite item. But, many owners are able to discourage furniture clawing and encouraging other forms of nail sharpening. Since you don’t know what behaviors your kitten will adopt, some veterinarians suggest holding off on the surgery until a problem arises. Others, however, suggest performing the surgery at an early age, since young kittens can heal faster than older cats. Many veterinarians will discourage or refuse to declaw a cat’s back claws, leaving them for protection.
If you are having a hard time deciding whether or not to declaw your cat, then consider the situation. If your cat spends times outside, then declawing is definitely not recommended; she needs her claws to defend herself. If she never leaves the confinements of your home and alternatives have not been successful, then you may need to have your cat declawed. Rest assured knowing that the procedure is performed regularly, and rarely do cats have problems later down the road.
Declawing a cat is a great debate in the United States. Many people feel that the procedure is inhuman, but others think it’s the only way to keep their home intact. There are different methods of performing the procedure; each has its own advantages and disadvantages. There are also alternatives to declawing, but they all take time and patience. Cats that spend time outdoors should never have their claws removed, since sharp nails are a way for them to protect themselves. Whether or not you want to have your cat declawed is up to you and your veterinarian.
Article provided by Pet-Super-Store.com a site selling dog couches, wrought iron dog feeders and dog ramps.
August 27th, 2008
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